The Great Lamprais Taste-Off


Last updated by savan on 20 August 2012


Lamprais In The Daily FT Lamprais In The Daily FT.


The annual (well it will be annual) YAMU lamprais taste-off took place this week. For the good of all Colombars a crack team - A Cause Untrue author David Blacker, Cassandra Mascarenhas (Daily FT), Indi Samarajiva and Savan Wijewardene - engaged in a thorough degustation of six of the city’s most popular lamprais.

This was no frivolous endeavor, lamprais is the pride and joy of Sri Lanka’s diminished but still proud, Burgher community. However, as every good Burgher auntie knows, finding a decent lamprais in Colombo is becoming an ever more difficult task.

As the generation of housewives that kept the labor intensive arts of the frikkadel, vambatu pahi and stock-simmered rice alive vanishes into history, the fate of a dish that is an essential part of Sri Lanka’s culinary heritage hangs in the balance.

Our taste-off was held with the intention of tipping the scales back in favor of the continuation of this fine culinary tradition.

The lamprais in packs. Thanks to Barefoot for the space.


The Contenders

After lengthy preliminary discussions our six competing lamprais came from: We were only testing what’s readily available on a day’s notice for individuals. We know there are very good freelance suppliers operating - old Burgher aunties dealing out of their homes - but like certain other scarce commodities, you need to someone who knows someone and generally need to order dozens at once.

In keeping with the gravity of the task YAMU’s tasting procedures conformed to the highest international standards. The lamprais were removed from any branded packaging and numbered 1-6 to ensure all tasting was effectively blind. Judges were given tasting cards and asked to grade the lamprais according to a few key criteria:

The six lamprais at the table

Criteria

1. Presentation - The general banana-leaf quality, greasiness and wrapping. Inside, the appearance of the curries, ideally not a solid grey lump but distinct colors and a fresh glow.

2. Bouquet - The smell of a lamprais is crucial. As you peel open your curry-filled prize there should be notes of banana from the wrapper, the clear savory scent of the stock-simmered samba rice and the delicate waft of spice- cardamom, cinnamon, lemongrass. There shouldn’t be an over-powering curry smell nor should there be a dominant fragrance, odorlessness isn’t a good sign either.

3. Authenticity - Preserving culinary traditions was a key part of the exercise. We were looking for lamprais that stayed true to the Burgher archetype. It’s only kosher if it contains the following elements:
  • Samba rice cooked in stock (not yellow rice or plain boiled rice)
  • Mixed meat curry - pork, chicken, mutton and beef were the original mixed meats but Sri Lanka’s various religions and their accompanying dietary restrictions mean that many places use a less controversial chicken leg as a substitute. From a food, perspective that just isn’t right and we docked points for those taking short-cuts.
  • Vambatu pahi -a sweet eggplant preparation.
  • Blachan (belacan) - a malay prawn paste
  • Frikkadel - originally a beef meat ball but now almost always replaced with the more indigenous cutlet- a popular spiced, crumbed snack.
  • Alukehel kan curry - curried savory plantains- though some purists consider even this common addition extraneous
These are the six hallowed components of the orthodox lamprais and judges were asked to deduct marks for omissions and extraneous additions - pol sambol, eggs, raisins, etc.

4. Tastiness - This carried twice the weight of the other categories because that’s what counts, even more than authenticity, you want your lamprais to be tasty.  Obviously this is something of subjective measure but you know what we mean - somethings are tasty, some aren’t.

Methodology

David Blacker eating lamprais


The numbered lamprais were arranged from 1-6 and placed on a round table. For the first tasting round the four judges moved from one parcel to the next diligently taking notes. Cutlery was strictly forbidden (as per the best Sri Lankan traditions) and judges were allowed just a few well-mixed fingerfuls.

When they reached the final lamprais there was a break and mouths were washed with  beer (this being the lunch-time Sri Lankan equivalent of a sorbet). Notes were compared and the judges then proceeded on another tasting round. Once again they moved from 1 through 6 but this time they were given more time with each lamprais in order to examine the individual lamprais components and detect any shortcomings. Once again the round ended with a comparison of notes and some palate cleansing.

There was also a third and final round of tasting (in David Blacker’s case perhaps even a fourth) but we weren’t really sure what the purpose of this was beyond pure greed...

The Result

From the very first round, Lamprais 2 emerged as the clear favorite among all four judges. While slightly smaller and more humble in appearance than the other parcels, the proportions of curries to rice was excellent and the flavors well-balanced.  Mixed together, everything was complimentary - the sweetness of the seeni sambol, the blachan’s savory tang, the soft alu kehel. What really stood out was the meat curry- discernible chunks of pork and beef rather than the grey largely chickeny mass found in other packets.

While there was no unanimous second place finisher the general consensus seemed to favor Lamprais 6. This was well presented with a good vambatu pahi and a tasty rice base, however the shortcomings of its mixed meat and blachan kept it from reaching the heights attained by no 2.

Who Is That Masked Leaf?

D. Grocer DBU G. Cabin Mrs. W BARS Fort Cafe
TOTAL 30 40 19 37 23 22
Presentation 5 3 2 5 2 3
Bouquet 4 3 3 5 4 2
Authenticity 4 4 2 3 2 2
Taste 3 6 3 4 3 2
Rice 3 4 1 5 4 2
Meat 3 5 2 4 2 5
Sides 3 5 3 4 3 5
Best Part 5 9 3 7 3 2
David Blacker's scorecard. He's the only one that finished filling it out.

Only after the judges made their final pronouncement was the cipher cracked and the winning name unveiled...

The DBU lamprais


1. DBU

After a brief moment of anticipation it turned out that our beloved no 2 was none other than the DBUs’ offering.  That’s right the long established gold standard struck a blow for Burgher Orthodoxy and Dutch ancestors on your male line by putting the upstarts in their place. Those lineage guarding, midday tippling, baila dancing Burghers might be a dying breed but their lamprais is alive and still kicking the competition into second place.

The Dutch Grocer lamprais


2. Dutch Grocer

Our second place finisher turned out to be from the Dutch Grocer. Something of a surprise as the operation has only been going a few weeks.  With an upgrade to its mixed meat it could really give the folks at the Thumulla a scare when it comes time for next year’s taste off.

 

Mrs. Warusawithana's


3. Mrs. Warusawithana

Mrs Warusawithana’s homecooked lamprais also gets an honorable mention – hers is a filling and tasty packet but the vambotu pahi and seeni sambol are somewhat overpowering.  The final product lacked the finesse of our top picks.

 

The Losers: Colombo Fort Cafe, Green Cabin, Bars

Perhaps unsurprisingly, the commercial lamprais finished last. Replete with such heresies as chicken legs and over large grains of rice these packets weren’t just unorthodox they lacked simple tastiness making them at best serviceable lunch packets but not really lamprais.

Value For Money

Just as all lamprais aren’t created equal, they aren’t equally priced either. Taking price into account the first place place DBU at Rupees 430 is fully worth it. The Dutch Grocer’s 360 rupee parcel is very competitive, while Bars’ Rs. 440 excuse for a lamprais really places at bottom of the pile.  You could also do much better than spend Rs 660 on a Colombo Fort Café lamprais.

The Last Word

The DBU is the top lamprais on all counts - taste, authenticity and value. Dutch Grocer, however, is an exciting new contender. The homecooked lamprais from Mrs. Warusawithana remains a reliable classic. All the commercial joints are kinda fail.




Comments

  • DavidBlacker
    20 August 2012
    Permalink

    Actually went and bought a couple of lampreis from Dutch Grocers yesterday for lunch. It's certainly good, though the DBU/Lorraine win is still fully justified.

  • Lal De Silva
    5 September 2012
    Permalink

    Hi David, good afternoon, trust all is well with you.
    I am Lal De Silva, Executive Chef of Cyril Rodrigo Restaurant Group. As a professional I do enjoy and appreciate food from other restaurants, specially from competitors and would like to share some of my thoughts with you regarding the DBU lampreis. By the way I do appreciate your comments posted on the 2nd of September.
    The same day your article was published, 18th August 2012 I bought two lampreis from the DBU and shared it with a couple of colleagues to get there feed back . Here are our comments.

    1. The quantity was small.
    2. There was no Ashplaintain.
    3. The "Seeni Sambale" was just a lump of fried onions.
    4. The rice was not flavorful and did not impress me.
    5 The blachan had a sweet taste to it.
    6. Did not taste any vinegar or mustard in the Brinjal but a sweet taste.
    7. The small pieces of chicken was dry and did not have much flavor of anything.

    May I also point out the following, at the Green Cabin we serve chicken Thighs and not a chicken leg in our lampries, our rice is cooked in a home made stock, our "Seeni sambale is the real deal, our blachan is not sweet.
    Our lampries recipe is still the original recipe from over 40 years ago and I am very happy to say that one of the pioneer ladies from that time is still in our kitchens overseeing the production every day!

    David just out of curiosity, please don't take this seriously but with a sense of hummer, would you mind sharing with me your "claim to fame" and what makes you a true expert in judging lampries.

    I sincerely do hope that we will get an opportunity to meet each other in the near future and that you would let me treat you to the "real deal" in lampries at the Green Cabin!

    Wishing you all the very best,

    Lal.

  • DavidBlacker
    8 September 2012
    Permalink

    Good afternoon to you too, Lal.

    1. At the review we found all 6 lampreis to be of more or less the same quantity.

    2. There certainly seems to be a consistency issue with the DBU lampreis, as I noted (same goes for the Dutch Grocers'). Someone else told me that she missed the ash plantain too. There certainly was ash plantain on the day of the review.

    3. We found the seeni sambol to be quite good.

    4. Wefound the rice in the DBU lampreis to be very tasty and just flavourful enough to compliment the meat, veges, and other items.

    5. I must admit that I find the blachan in the DBU lampreis to be my favourite. I quite like the sweeter taste. Not everyone does. My father, for example, doesn't like it that sweet.

    6. I didn't detect the individual flavours you mention, and brinjal isn't my favourite vegetable, but I found the DBU one acceptable enough. Others on the panel found it quite good.

    7. I avoid "chicken lampreis", but the mixed meat one we reviewed, had extremely juicy meat, and my only complaint was that it was perhaps too greasy because of the pork. But it was easily the tastiest of the meats on review.

    I have sampled the Green Cabin lampreis many times over the last ten years, since I worked in the neighbourhood. As mentioned in the review, it's a great meal, but in the review we didn't think it scored high in the lampreis stakes.

    FYI, for a great aunt of mine managed the Green Cabin in the late 1930s, when it went under a different name, which I can't recall at the moment. It is still one of my favourite restaurants.

    I have no claim to fame whatsoever, and I suspect I was included in the panel because I am a Burgher and lampreis is one of my favourite meals. Do remember that I was only one of four on the panel, and in the end it will always be a subjective opinion, based on our individual tastes in food, and our experiences of what a lampreis should be.

  • Lal De Silva
    12 September 2012
    Permalink

    Dear David,
    Thank you for your reply and the details explanation which is appreciated very much. I do understand your points.
    As I lived away from Sri Lanka for 33 years I am not that familiar with lumpreis and honestly don't understand what the big deal is all about when it comes to lumpreis. I prefer Pillow Rice over lumpreis any day.
    Please let me know if you are in the neighborhood so we can hook up over a lumpreis.
    Wishing you a wonderful day,
    Best regards,
    Lal.

  • DavidBlacker
    14 September 2012
    Permalink

    Thanks, Lal, I just might take up your offer one of these days. I think a lot of the passion for lampreis is based on nostalgia, for an era when there were a lot more Burghers (and lampreis) around. There is also an anxiety to get it while it lasts, since with the gradual decrease in Burghers, it is possible that the lampreis might disappear in its original form (like the Veddhas) and be replaced by a Sinhalized version of it. I think it's a great rice meal, and probably endemic to SL. The closest thing to it, I'm told, is in Indonesia (another former Dutch colony), where the rice is also cooked in toddy.

  • akasha
    20 August 2012
    Permalink

    Are you kidding? Green cabin is easily the most tastiest… DBU is a waste of money, last time i ate that, there was more rice than anything else and it tasted stale… Green Cabin at least offers you substatial chicken… the homecooked one is nice but its shredded chicken :(

  • savan Yamu Staff
    20 August 2012
    Permalink

    There was definitely a time when the DBU lamprais wasnt all that good but this was a blind tasting and it really stood out. So give it another go. Green Cabin's is at most a reasonable buth packet but it cant be called a lamprais. There was no real blachchan taste, the rice grains were large and not properly cooked in stock, not much of a vambotu pahi… also traditionaly lamprais should never have a chicken leg- shredded chicken was part of the mixed meat curry but a chicken leg is an immediate authenticity fail.

  • malith
    20 August 2012
    Permalink

    i think from the onset you have decided that the lamprais from DBU is the winner, the whole taste test seems to be as to how close the others came to the DBU so you have listed a another burgher joint in the second place, the tinny DBU lamprais is not worth Rs. 430 and as akasha has noted it often tastes stale and the mix of meat might be authentic but it is not tasty

  • savan Yamu Staff
    20 August 2012
    Permalink

    Nope. I mean the tasting was completely blind. I was honestly rooting against the DBU its let me down in the past and a less established winner is a much better story. But on the day it was clear the no 2 packet was the best an that turned out to be the DBU and I may have even been slightly dissapointed that this was the case. If you can recommend a lamprais that can knock the DBU off its pedestal I'd be glad to try it.

  • savan Yamu Staff
    20 August 2012
    Permalink

    If we are really going into lamprais mechanics obviously a mixed meat -mutton, beef, pork and chicken curry is more special and delicious that a curried chicken leg. However Im not entirely convinced by the authenticity of even the DBU's effort - its yummy but I think they are using the base from their pork curry which anyone whose been to the DBU hopper night knows is excellent.
    However I dont think that the dark curry base is the authentic base for mixed meat curry…. A real mixed meat curry is different and really a class above- none of the packets we tried really succeeded the DBU's effort was tastiest though.

  • DavidBlacker
    20 August 2012
    Permalink

    Malith, as Savan said (several times over), the tasting was done blind. Let me explain what that means; ie we had no idea which lampreis came from where when we tasted it. If you look at my score sheet, I had initially scored the DBU low on presentation and aroma, and that's true -- the DBU lampreis isn't much to look at, but once you start eating it's clearly the best. So believe me, there was no pre-decided winner.

    From your comment on the size of the DBU lampreis, you obviously haven't had one in a long time. There was a time when you'd need to eat two to be satisfied, but they've increased the quantity. In fact, all six lampreis were about the same size.

    Akasha, Green Cabin lampreis is easily the worst I've ever tasted as far as lampreis goes. However, even the losers are still good meals -- good bath packets, as Savan says -- which is why you probably like the GC one; but it's not a lampreis.

  • Pubudu
    21 August 2012
    Permalink

    You must be having issues with your taste buds :D

  • David Neal
    21 August 2012
    Permalink

    True. People say "No use" simply because they've forgotten what is authentic. A quick reference to our good Daily News Cookery Book by Hilda Deutrom, and one can judge. I notice the DBU lamprais was high on "taste" (at least in Blackler's) score sheet. Since the DBU don't turn out those packets themselves, it's kudos to the supplier really. The DBU are just the retailers! Possibly one can get the same stuff slightly cheaper direct from the cook?

  • DavidBlacker
    21 August 2012
    Permalink

    Yup, it's supplied by Lorraine Bartholemeuz, and you can get 'em frozen from her, but I think the price is the same.

  • Mervin
    21 August 2012
    Permalink

    What no Fab lampreis? Of the commercial offerings isn't Fab lampreis the better choice? Am not sure how it tastes compared to the DBU lampreis, as I haven't had one of those in a while, but its certainly miles ahead of the Green Cabin's offering…

  • Keith
    23 August 2012
    Permalink

    The Fab lamprais also does not qualify as an 'authentic' version. I presume this would be the reason it was not considered. One of the key criteria for authenticity is the mixed meat factor. While the whole leg of chicken and the whole egg may be preferred by some, it hardly qualifies as the authentic lamprais of the days gone by.

  • Lalith
    23 August 2012
    Permalink

    I believe the chicken leg and hard boiled egg may be an import from the Sri Lankan biryani (or buriyani as it is termed). In fact I have seen an ad for lamprais sold in sawans!

  • Johan
    22 August 2012
    Permalink

    Does the dbu have vegetarian lamprais?

  • Mervin
    23 August 2012
    Permalink

    Well if GREEN CABIN lamprais was considered then FAB lamprais certainly should be. Neither of them have the mixed meat option and both are commercialized version of the traditional. Doesn't make sense why one was considered and the other not.

  • Steven Pieres
    23 August 2012
    Permalink

    WHERE WERE THE PORK LAMPRAIS AVAILABLE??? :)) And reviews like this should be done more often with the "right" FOODIES! :)) (hint hint) Cheers! :)

  • Jayan
    3 September 2012
    Permalink

    Went to the Dutch grocer thanks to this article. Bought the Pork beef chicken one. Just one word WOW! Nuff said. Thank you for finding this place.

  • DavidBlacker
    3 September 2012
    Permalink

    Bought lampreis from the DBU last weekend, and it didn't have any ash plantain in it, so there's definitely a consistency question there. If we'd been reviewing last weekend, it wouldn't have won. Also, service is terrible at the DBU. No one bothered to answer the phones all morning today, so I couldn't place an order. Went to the Dutch Grocers instead. Alas, their lampreis wasn't up to standard today. Too much spice in the meat; almost like a curry. So again, questionable consistency. This lampreis would've scored low as well if it had been reviewed today. All in all, lucky winners, I'd say.

  • Ashley de Vos
    3 September 2012
    Permalink

    Traditionally lampreis were small. Six for men and two for women. The meat preparation was always mixed meat. Each family had slight variations, but consistency was maintained and that comes from the love that went into the preparation. Commercial Lampreis will always remain buth packets. Lorraine B. still does a good job.

  • Parthi
    4 September 2012
    Permalink

    Great post…I enjoyed watching the video and the whole experience you captured. I would like to see the similar approach to find colombo's best tasting Kothu Rotti and Hoppers. I am sure your readers would be excited to read it.

  • John Silva
    24 September 2012
    Permalink

    Sampled the Dutch grocer offering around the 10th of August (before this taste off), and posted my opinion here: http://cms.johnsilva.ca/?p=213 . I'm the first one to admit I'm not an expert by any means, but just the average Joe on the street, commenting on good eats, after returning back to Sri Lanka. One of my dear friends 'educated' me on the merits of a good Lamprais, and what to look for. This taste off was definitely read by a whole lot of Sri Lankans overseas, as evident from comments on Facebook.

  • Yoyo
    1 October 2012
    Permalink

    Thanks for this taste off and the video that captured it all. The DBU Lamprais is too small to feed a hungry man and is a bit too costly for the normal citizen, but the taste is better than many places who sell different styles of rice under the name 'Lamprais' , it's like the notorious ' Fried Rice' that's more available than the normal rice and curry in many places.

    Tried the FAB offering and it was not bad but not as good as DBU.

    Also tried Lamprais from ' Kushmi ' and it's good and less oily.

    However, thanks for the review, looking for more……

  • rapo912
    24 October 2012
    Permalink

    We bought lamprais from DBU today. Firstly the quatity is too small. scondly the presentation was not so good. i have never seen tempered onions in a lamprais. meat quantity was very small with extremely small peices. Taste was good. No ashplatains. Well tehy can do much better for that price,

  • Mandya
    20 November 2012
    Permalink

    DBU lamprais are made by a temperamental person…never had ash plantain in them ever…yet the tasting panel seems to have had some. Don Stanley deli do lovely lamprais that are real Value for money. They taste very good and also have an egg which I enjoy…I know it not considered authentic and all that but then who cares ! Authentic ?? Lamprais ? what is the original recipe and where has it been traced to. Marine Drive has Dons Deli…great lamprais…good value

  • Yohan
    24 December 2012
    Permalink

    Had lamprais from the Dutch Grocer (since DBU didnt answer the phone), was good, but a little too hot for the kids. Great value at 290 bucks and definitely worth the money. Also came nicely heated and packed well. Although a great contender, I think though the balance tips in favour of the DBU, particularly as you also get to have Carino Ice Cream……

  • Nadi
    30 December 2012
    Permalink

    Had the DBU lamprice recently - it's definitely very small especially considering the price. It probably has a consistency issue as there were no ash plantains, but I also found the brinjal & seeni sambol too sweet and shock, horror - 2 cutlets instead of the frikkadels! We have been buying from Mrs. W for years not and I must say her stuff are tasty & consistent although my brother finds them too small!

  • asheandesliva
    9 January 2013
    Permalink

    worst lamprai in DBU.not worth it,so much chicken skin and no ashplantan, poor quantity of rice.

  • ranjini
    9 January 2013
    Permalink

    worst lamprai in DBU and not worth it, quantity of rice is not enough for a child even, no ashplantan, too much sweet and salt in blachan, so much chicken skin. The worst lamprai I ate in my life.

  • greedygutts
    23 February 2013
    Permalink

    who supplied lumprice to lakpahana close to Royal college?

  • channam
    26 February 2013
    Permalink

    found vegetable "LUMP RICE" served at a buffet in a chafing dish in a top colombo hotel. :)

  • Ron
    26 February 2013
    Permalink

    DBU Lamprias value for money is very poor. The quantity is not even enough for a person.

    Perera and sons has good quantity and a huge piece of chicken but taste is not that good, But has more value for money.

  • Nishani
    27 February 2013
    Permalink

    Yamu seems to be quite misleading in its posts of trying to write based on a few peoples opinions. Guys please ensure correctness of articles before you post it to public.

    If you guys think the value for money for DBU is good. Seriously think again? 430 and that wont even be enough for a 10 y.o child, when it comes to quantity they have a chicken piece which is smaller than a tiny cutlet.

    DBU stands one? hahah I should say for the quantity they provide they should be the last on that list. Also I dont think the food itself is tat tasty over here…

  • nikkimarzook
    27 February 2013
    Permalink

    totally agree with the quantity issue ….the littl meat that was there was however very good !

  • Ameen169
    27 February 2013
    Permalink

    you guys have forgotten the Lakpahan Lamprais! maybe you can try that out next time :)

  • Nish
    1 April 2013
    Permalink

    Tried out the Dutch Grocer Lamprais and it was very good…authentic at its best…had the mixed meat and the only prob was that the quantity of the meat curry should be a bit more…rice was plenty and so were the other curries…all were prepared to their own unique taste and was a fresh change to the usual lankanised lamprais which is available widely.Thanx YAMU fir the recommendation.

  • Ruks
    29 April 2013
    Permalink

    Yamu<< please try the lamprais at this place called "Seven Plus" at Pelawatte,in Parliment Road(Vijitha pura gemunu mawatha) !! Its divine and I think they definitely deserve a shot here!!

  • Mike
    13 May 2013
    Permalink

    Hi, I know all these places are quite reputed for Lampraise, but has anyone tasted the Lampraise at The Meal Cart in Ratmalana? I know its out of the way for all you Colombo people… just try and see though… you really might enjoy it….

  • Mike
    13 May 2013
    Permalink

    Oh, and forgot to mention that Lampraise at The Meal Cart is only 270/=

  • Dinidu
    16 May 2013
    Permalink

    I accidentally found this review and even left work early to catch Lamprais at Dutch Grocer which apparently is the second place in the Yamu.lk's review.It was a load of crap.Even the P@S offers a better Lamprais than that.It was way pathetic and comparable to a curry dinner packet.Price is now 390.

Tip: Login with Facebook to get your comment approved instantly

Login with Facebook