A Walk Through Jaffna Market.

In my book, the nicest way to immerse yourself in a new town is by strolling through the local market. Not a supermarket, but an actual one, with vendors selling fresh produce and locally-manufactured goods, and customers coming for the timeless pleasure of buying them. You can learn more about the flavour of a place from being a bystander here than a guide book would ever be able to tell you. 

It’s no surprise, then, that on a recent trip to Jaffna, I began my exploration in the quaint, colourful and chaotic local market that is smack dab in the centre of town. I found a whole treasure trove of products that you’d be hard pressed to find in a cookie-cutter supermarket. 

The latest food movement to take the world by storm is eating local — turns out, the Jaffna market is an education in doing just that. From palmyrah flour to peanut candy, most of everything you can buy is hyper-local, made in small quantities using locally available ingredients. 

In nearly every store, for instance, you will find sacks of mor milagai (literally, buttermilk chillies), pictured below. The sharp aroma of these dried chillies marinated in spiced buttermilk assails the nose when you walk in.

In a city that’s notorious for its affection for saccharine sweetness, it’s no surprise that you’ll find sweetmeats of many persuasions. We were intrigued by these laddoo-like mini-globes made of kadalaimaa or sweet, roasted gram flour, scented with cardamom. One chatty vendor informed us that these are especially nutritious.

Considered a symbol of the arid Northern Province, every part of the odiyal or palmyrah tree finds use in the region. The pulp is sweetened and dried to make panaddu, a uniquely Jaffna snack that is sticky, stretchy and bitter-sweet. You will also find odiyal flour (the base for Jaffna kool), odiyal chips and even colourful utensils and bags made of palmyrah fibre.

Although they are available all over town, the market is the best place to stock up on Jaffna’s luridly coloured and exuberantly sweet fruit cordials. One vendor who also turned out to be a persuasive salesman also sold us a bottle of Rosetto, a wine that is made by nuns of the Rosarian convent in Atchuvely, about 20 km from Jaffna. We went on a mission wild goose chase to find the source of the wine, but that’s a story we’ll save for an upcoming post.

We rounded up our walk with a pit stop (and unforeseen shopping spree) at one of the many dried fish shops that line the road that leads to the market. With large, dried fish hanging from hooks in the ceiling and stacks of smaller fish heaped into cartons, it’s impossible to miss the sight — or stench — of this line of shops. Most of the dried fish is meant for export, we were informed by a vendor. Apart from paraw, sprats and other names we couldn’t quite catch, you can also buy beautifully orange dried prawns (pictured below). 

If you’re the sort of person who obsessively checks to-dos off a list when visiting a new city, this may not be the outing for you. But if, like me, you’d rather soak in its flavours slowly, it’s just the ticket. 

Share on facebook
Share on twitter
Share on whatsapp

Highlights.

Latest.

KAMU.

Sri Lanka’s First Hotpot Conveyor Belt Launches at We Ai Family in Colombo

Colombo has just welcomed an exciting new culinary experience with the launch of Sri Lanka’s

Highlights Kamu Trending

A Vintage Affair at Sky Lounge

An Evening of Fine Wine and an Italian Touch The Kingsbury, Colombo, invites you to

Highlights Kamu Trending

Taste the World: 7 Cuisines in 7 Days

Are you craving a culinary adventure? 7 Cuisines in 7 Days is your ultimate guide

Highlights Kamu Trending

The Avenue, Colombo – Review

From the moment you walk in, the space offers a sense of comfort. Its simple

Highlights Kamu Trending

7 Fine Dining Restaurants You Must Try in Colombo

Sri Lanka’s culinary scene is rapidly evolving, blending its rich heritage with global gastronomic trends.

Highlights Kamu Trending

Tea Trails & Tastes: : Best Eats in Nuwara Eliya and Ella.

By Fathima Rukaiya, Let’s take a flavorful journey through the culinary landscapes of Ella and

Highlights Kamu Trending

Trending.

Sri Lanka’s First Iris Photography Experience by Eye Craft

On June 29th, the iconic Virticle by Jetwing hosted the grand launch of Eye Craft,

Trending

Hilton Named Best Workplace in Sri Lanka

This milestone marks the first time the hospitality company is recognized as the top employer

Trending

Bello Beach Bar by Browns Hotels & Resorts Redefines Coastal Leisure on Sri Lanka’s East Coast

Pasikuda’s coastline, known for its calm waters and untouched beauty, welcomed a refreshing new addition

Trending

MasterChef Franchise Makes Landmark Debut in Sri Lanka with Star-Studded Launch

Global culinary hit commissioned in 71 territories following latest Banijay Rights dealRs 3 Million, a

Trending

Sri Lanka’s Most Acclaimed Japanese Restaurant, Nihonbashi, Celebrates 30 Years

Marking three decades of popularizing "Washoku" in Sri Lanka, Chef Dharshan Munidasa’s flagship restaurant celebrates

Trending

Sesaya Poshtel & Bistro: Redefining Affordable Luxury and Community Living in Colombo

Sesaya Poshtel & Bistro, a vibrant new lifestyle destination, has officially opened its doors in

Trending

Yamu Guide.

A Curated List of 9 Japanese Restaurants in Sri Lanka

1.Salmon and Maki - Thalawathugoda Japanese Fusion Cuisine 11.00 AM - 10.30 PM (everyday) Visit:

Highlights Yamu Guide

Best Waterfalls in Sri Lanka (Including Hidden Gems)

By Fathima Rukaiya, There are many beautiful waterfalls in Sri Lanka, but are you unsure

Highlights Trending Yamu Guide

The 2025 High Tea Round-Up

Looking for the perfect place to enjoy a relaxing high tea? Whether you're into sweet

Highlights Yamu Guide

Father’s Day Gift Guide 2025

By Linara Wimalaweera Father's Day is an opportunity to acknowledge the dedication and influence of

Yamu Guide

Top Must-Try Restaurants in Ahangama for 2025

Ahangama, a charming surf town on Sri Lanka's southern coast, is becoming a popular spot

Highlights Yamu Guide

8 Gift Ideas to Celebrate Your Mom This Mother’s Day

Mother’s Day is a special time set aside to honor the amazing women who shape

Yamu Guide